How to Clean a Washing Machine
· 4 min read
It feels slightly unfair that the appliance responsible for clean clothes can quietly become one of the grubbiest things in the house. Detergent residue, fabric conditioner, lint, hair and damp all collect in places you rarely look. The first sign is often a faint sour smell on towels, grey flecks on dark clothes or black spots on the rubber seal. The good news is that a proper clean takes an hour or so, and most of that is the machine doing the work.
Before you start: safety and the manual
Switch the machine off at the wall and unplug it before you touch the filter or reach deep into the door seal. Keep a towel and a shallow tray nearby, because water will escape when you open the filter. Have a look at the manufacturer's manual too, as some models have a dedicated drum-clean programme and specific advice on which cleaning products are suitable.
One rule matters more than any other: never mix cleaning products. Bleach combined with vinegar, or with other acidic or ammonia-based cleaners, can release harmful gases. Pick one method per wash, rinse in between, and keep the room ventilated.
What you will need
- Rubber gloves and an old toothbrush
- Microfibre cloths and a bowl of warm, soapy water
- A shop-bought washing machine cleaner, or white vinegar or bicarbonate of soda as gentle alternatives
- A towel, a shallow tray and a torch for the filter
Step by step
1. Clear out the detergent drawer
Most drawers pull out completely once you press a small release tab, usually marked in the fabric conditioner section. Soak the drawer in warm, soapy water while you work on the rest, then scrub every corner with the toothbrush. Do not forget the cavity the drawer slides into: shine a torch inside and you may find a layer of gunk on the roof, which is where mould likes to settle. Wipe it out thoroughly before sliding the drawer back.
2. Work around the door seal
Gently fold back the rubber gasket and you will often find hair, coins, fluff and a ring of grey slime. Remove the debris by hand, then wipe the folds with warm soapy water. Stubborn dark marks may need a little more patience and a product made for seals; follow the label and rinse afterwards. Finish by drying the folds with a clean cloth, since trapped moisture is what lets marks return.
3. Empty the filter
The pump filter normally sits behind a small hatch at the bottom front of the machine. With the machine unplugged, lay the towel down, position the tray and open the emergency drain hose if there is one. Let the water run out slowly, then unscrew the filter. Pull out any lint, buttons or hair grips, rinse the filter under the tap and screw it back firmly so it cannot leak.
4. Run a maintenance wash
With the drum empty, add your chosen cleaner as the packet directs, or use one of the gentle alternatives. Then run the hottest programme your machine offers, or its drum-clean cycle. This loosens the film of softened detergent coating the inside of the drum and the pipes you cannot reach. If you used vinegar on one cycle and want to try something else, run a rinse in between.
5. Wipe and air
Once the cycle finishes, wipe the drum, the glass and the seal one last time, and leave the door and drawer ajar so everything dries out properly.
How often is enough?
There is no single schedule that suits every household, so it helps to think in terms of signs and rhythms rather than strict dates:
| Task | A sensible rhythm |
|---|---|
| Dry the door seal and leave the door open | After every wash |
| Rinse the detergent drawer | Every few weeks, or when residue builds up |
| Maintenance wash | Roughly monthly, more often if you mostly wash cool |
| Empty the filter | Every couple of months, or if draining slows |
Habits that keep it fresher for longer
- Measure detergent. More soap does not mean cleaner clothes; the excess simply builds up inside the machine.
- Go easy on fabric conditioner. It is thick and sticky, which makes it a common source of residue in the drawer.
- Mix in a warmer wash now and then. If every load is a cool, quick cycle, an occasional hotter wash for towels or bedding helps keep the drum clear.
- Unload promptly. Wet laundry left sitting in a closed drum is an open invitation to musty smells.
- Check pockets. Tissues, coins and hair grips are the usual culprits behind a clogged filter.
In hard-water areas, a white crust can also form on the heating element and inside the pipes. Our guide on how to remove limescale from taps, kettles and showers explains how mineral deposits form and how to tackle them around the rest of the house.
When cleaning does not fix it
If the smell returns within days, water stays in the drum after a cycle, or you notice leaks around the base, the problem may be mechanical rather than a matter of grime. A blocked drain hose, a worn seal or a failing pump is a job for a qualified appliance engineer, especially where water and electrics are close together. Do not open panels or attempt internal repairs yourself.
And if the musty smell seems to be in the whole room rather than just the laundry, the machine may not be the only cause. Our piece on getting rid of a musty smell in the house looks at damp, airflow and the other places it tends to hide.
